Socks&Stockings: A world full of surprises. A new TRC exhibition, from 5th September until mid-December

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Woollen Turkmen socks from Iran, 1999, TRC 1999.0130a-b.

Woollen Turkmen socks from Iran, 1999, TRC 1999.0130a-b.

Every morning we put them on, those socks. Often we don't even think about it. But behind the apparently common sock there is a world full of surprises. Did you know that people in Tajikistan knit the most colourful socks of almost one metre long and half a metre wide? And that in the Middle East socks are knitted from the toe upwards, while in Europe we tend to start at the top? And that hand knitting socks has become very popular again?

A major element of the exhibition were the silk stockings found in a mid-seventeenth century wreck discovered off the coast of Texel in the north of The Netherlands. These hand knitted stockings became the focus of a special project led by Chrystel Brandenburg to study the techniques applied to knit these ultra-fine stockings.

The project was sponsored by the Prins Bernard Cultuurfonds. The exhibition will show the story of the project and the hand knitted stockings made by a group of dedicated and skilful knitters.

Lees meer: Socks&Stockings: A world full of surprises. A new TRC exhibition, from 5th September until mid-December

 

Hand & Lock, London

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The London based firm of Hand & Lock has been producing embroideries for court and military uniforms, and diplomatic and religious garments, since 1767.

From their current premises at 86 Margaret Street, Fitzrovia, London, they are still actively involved in producing and teaching embroidery, especially with gold and silver thread.

TRC has long been collaborating with Hand & Lock, and they recently donated a series of replicas of insignia for chivalric orders, some of which worn by the famous British admiral, Horatio Nelson (see here for more information). The latest issue of their journal, Hand & Lock, contains an article about the TRC (pp. 83-86). A PdF version of the article can be downloaded here.

To purchase this issue of Hand & Lock, please go to the attached web address.

 

Visiting some museums in Jerusalem

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On Tuesday, 30th July 2019, Gillian Vogelsang wrote:

Last Sunday we visited the Holocaust Museum (Yad Vashem), a moving experience because it was so personal. It was about a generation and more of people who vanished. Many of the chronological themes were explained via objects such as photographs, travel documents, letters, a battered watch or a broken toothbrush. Other stories were told via garments, such as a blouse taken from a mound that was recognised as having belonged to a friend and neighbour, a pit full of shoes, yellow Stars of David, and most telling, the blue and white striped garments worn in the camps. This museum really shows how clothing can be used to tell hard stories and pass on messages and emotions.

Lees meer: Visiting some museums in Jerusalem

 

Thoughts in Jerusalem

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Street scene in the Jerusalem bazaar, 29 July 2019. Photograph Willem Vogelsang.

Street scene in the Jerusalem bazaar, 29 July 2019. Photograph Willem Vogelsang.

On Monday, 29th July, Gillian Vogelsang wrote from Jerusalem:

The last two weeks have been quite a time, both at the TRC Leiden itself and for myself. It has included the Out of Asia programme in Leiden, between 14 and 19 July. A few days later I took part in a symposium at Leicester University about science and archaeological/historical textiles, and now with Willem we have a few days in the old city of Jerusalem (a holiday, of sorts).

A theme of all these events, which became clear to me the last few days, has been the passing down of knowledge and community identity through crafts, rather than solely by the written word (a skill that was long in the hands of a few, elite men).

It has left me a little sad, as it is clear that conflicts, changes in communication (spending time on telephones and watching tv), technology (computer driven machines) and that dreaded word globalization have broken the lineage of generations of craft knowledge, which will never come back.

Lees meer: Thoughts in Jerusalem

 

Out of Asia: 2000 years of textiles. 12 - 15 August 2019

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Lingerie bag from Japan, made for the European market, 1930s (TRC 2016.2172).

Lingerie bag from Japan, made for the European market, 1930s (TRC 2016.2172).

As part of the many events around the International Convention of Asia Scholars (Leiden, 16-19 July 2019), the TRC has set up an exhibition Out of Asia: 2000 years of textiles, on the theme of Eastern textiles and their popularity throughout the ages in the Middle East and Europe. The exhibition will include over eighty textiles, garments and outfits. 

The exhibition includes a plethora of items that illustrate how people in the Middle East and Europe have for long been fascinated with Eastern textiles and dress. There will be actual fragments of silk textiles that were transported along the Silk Roads about two thousand years ago, and also a Roman-period textile that copied Central Asia forms. This type of textile (taqueté) became so popular in the Middle East that it is still being made in Egypt and, until some years ago, in Iran. Also on display are Indian block printed export textiles from the thirteenth century, which were discovered along the Red Sea coast in Egypt (and much older than any extant examples from India).

More recent textiles and garments (eighteenth century onwards) include urban and regional Dutch garments made with Indian and Indonesian materials, French woven silks with representations of Oriental figures, as well as a wide range of Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Indonesian style textiles (most of these date to the twentieth century).

The exhibition can still be seen from 12th -15th August at the TRC, Hogewoerd 164, Leiden, each day between 10.00 - 16.00.

Lees meer: Out of Asia: 2000 years of textiles. 12 - 15 August 2019

 

Weekend workshop: Wat is kant? 31 aug. - 1 sept. 2019

Detail van een doopjurk gemaakt van Brussels kant  c. 1820. TRC 2014.0831.

Detail van een doopjurk gemaakt van Brussels kant c. 1820. TRC 2014.0831.

Kant is één van de fijnste stoffen die door de mens kan worden gemaakt. Kant wordt al eeuwenlang in verschillende vormen gefabriceerd, en deze verschillen weerspiegelen veranderingen in levenswijze, mode en technologie. Maar er zijn nog heel veel vragen. Zoals: wat is nu eigenlijk kant? Hoe wordt het gemaakt? Hoe kun je de verschillende vormen onderscheiden? Dit zijn enkele van de vragen (en er zijn er nog veel meer) die we hopen te beantwoorden op deze tweedaagse cursus.

Het doel van de cursus, die een herhaling is van een succesvolle cursus die in november 2017 en september 2018 is gegeven, is om de deelnemers in staat te stellen de beginselen van kant-productie te begrijpen, en om de verschillende gereedschappen en vormen van kant te bekijken en bestuderen.

De eerste dag is gewijd aan de identificatie van de voornaamste typen van kant, met inbegrip van appliqué en geborduurd kant. Dit deel van de cursus omvat ook praktisch werk. De tweede dag wordt besteed aan de identificatie van allerlei voorbeelden van kant, en het zelf maken van enkele stukjes kloskant.

Deelnemers zullen allerlei soorten kant uit de collectie van het TRC kunnen bestuderen, sommige daarvan zijn zeer uitzonderlijk. De cursus wordt gegeven door Olga Ieromina, een kantklosser en conservator van de TRC kant-collectie. Als u zelf enige stukken kant tijdens de cursus wilt laten bestuderen, aarzel dan niet deze mee te nemen. 

Datum: 31 augustus en 1 september 2019. Tijd: 10.00 – 16.00. Plaats: TRC Leiden, Hogewoerd 164, 2351 HW Leiden. Docent: Olga Ieromina. Taal: English. Registratie tevoren is verplicht ( Dit e-mailadres is beschermd tegen spambots. U heeft Javascript nodig om het te kunnen zien. ). Kosten: 175 euro. Aantal deelnemers: maximaal 8.

Lees meer: Weekend workshop: Wat is kant? 31 aug. - 1 sept. 2019

 

De TRC online tentoonstellingen

Handwerklieden in de Straat van de Tentmakers, Cairo, Egypte.

Handwerklieden in de Straat van de Tentmakers, Cairo, Egypte.

Met enige trots presenteert het TRC de eerste elf online tentoonstellingen, van een voorgenomen serie die de enorme collectie van het TRC voor het voetlicht zal brengen. Onlangs hebben we de online tentoonstelling over kant (Lace identification: 7 examples) opengesteld. Alle online tentoonstellingen zijn gebaserd op de TRC Collectie en op TRC tentoonstellingen in het verleden. Tentoonstellingen kunnen op verzoek worden uitgeleend aan musea of andere geschikte lokaties. Als u belangstelling heeft, neemt u dan Dit e-mailadres is beschermd tegen spambots. U heeft Javascript nodig om het te kunnen zien. met ons op.

Klik hier om een indruk te krijgen van wat het TRC te bieden heeft.

De elf titels zijn als volgt:

 

 

 

A Russian ribbon with a history

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A St. George ribbon, produced and distributed in Russia to mark the end of World War II (May 2019). TRC collectiom

A St. George ribbon, produced and distributed in Russia to mark the end of World War II (May 2019). TRC collectiom

On Saturday, 18th May 2019, TRC volunteer Shelley Anderson wrote:

I visited St. Petersburg (Russia) on a national holiday. Victory Day, 9 May, celebrates the end of the Second World War, or, as it’s known in Russia, the Great Patriotic War. Millions had gathered in St. Petersburg to participate in a massive parade. Many carried placards with photographs of relatives who had fought and died during the war and the brutal siege the city had suffered. You could spot some people in 1940s-style military uniforms. Thousands of people also wore a ribbon on their chest.

I was curious about this wide ribbon, tied in a bow. It’s called the Saint George ribbon, after a patron saint of Russia, and has three black stripes and four orange ones. It is worn on the left side, closest to the heart, as a symbol of respect for those who  died during the war and as a symbol of pride in being Russian. Its history goes back to 1769, when Empress Catherine the Great first established the prestigious military decoration, the Order of St. George. The black stripe symbolised gun powder, while the orange symbolised the fire of war.

Lees meer: A Russian ribbon with a history

 

501(c)(3)

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For many of us, the code 501(c)(3) means nothing, but in the US it is very important, it means that financial and object donations to a registered charity can be tax deductable for American tax payers.

From May 2019, the Textile Research Centre, Leiden (TRC Leiden) and the Tracing Patterns Foundation, Berkeley (TPF) will be working together to raise funds for textile studies and textile craftspeople worldwide.

The Tracing Patterns Foundation is a 501(c)(3) non-profit cultural organisation based in California and headed by textile scholar and curator Dr. Sandra Sardjono. All financial and object donations made through the TPF are tax deductible for US tax payers.

Lees meer: 501(c)(3)

 

Fowler Museum Los Angeles: Special exhibition curated by director TRC, 17 March - 18 August 2019

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Woman's jacket from Syria, late 19th - early 20th cent., front and back (Fowler Museum at UCLA X2018.20.3).

Woman's jacket from Syria, late 19th - early 20th cent., front and back (Fowler Museum at UCLA X2018.20.3).

 

Dressed with Distinction: Garments from Ottoman Syria is the title of a new exhibition at the Fowler Museum in Los Angeles. The exhibition explores the region’s textile production during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when Syria was an international hub for the trade and production of handwoven cloth.

With a focus on the social and seasonal contexts in which garments were worn by men, women, and children, the exhibition’s presentation of these distinguished textiles enables audiences to engage with Syrian culture and weaving techniques from a bygone era.

The exhibition is curated by Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director of the Textile Research Centre (TRC Leiden). The exhibition can be seen until 18th August 2019.

For more information on the exhibition, click here.

 

TRC intensieve textielcursus, 21-25 oktober en herhaald 18-22 oktober 2019

Foto genomen tijdens de TRC Intensieve Textielcursus in april 2017.

Foto genomen tijdens de TRC Intensieve Textielcursus in april 2017.

In 2019 organiseert het TRC weer de intensieve vijfdaagse textilecursussen. De eerstkomende cursus wordt gegeven van 21-25 oktober, en wordt herhaald van 18-22 november 2019. De cursus wordt in 2020 viermaal gegeven: 16-20 maart, 20-24 april, 21-25 september, 19-23 oktober 

Het cursus-programma wordt verzorgd door mevr. dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood en trekt belangstellenden uit de gehele wereld. De cursus wordt gegeven in het Engels en combineert theorie en praktijk, met een nadruk op het uitproberen van verschillende technieken zoals spinnen, weven en verven, het onderzoeken en analyseren van organische en niet-organische vezels, en het bestuderen van complete stoffen. Het is de bedoeling dat studenten leren wat er precies gebeurt rond de productie van textiel en welke combinaties van technieken kunnen worden gebruikt. Textiel, uit welke tijd of welke cultuur dan ook, kan daardoor beter worden begrepen. Gedurende de cursus wordt gebruik gemaakt van de enorme collectie van kleding en textiel van het TRC. Een recent verslag van de cursus werd geschreven door een deelnemer van het Museum of Fine Art in Belgrado, Servië (November 2018). Klik hier om het lezen.

Lees meer: TRC intensieve textielcursus, 21-25 oktober en herhaald 18-22 oktober 2019

 

Ties to history. A new TRC exhibition for 2020

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Statue of one of the soldiers in the tomb of the Chinese Emperor Shih Huan Ti (d. 210 BC), wearing a neckband. President Donald Trump's name is shown on a tie label in the background, advertising Trump's fashion line of ties (incidentally, made in China).

Statue of one of the soldiers in the tomb of the Chinese Emperor Shih Huan Ti (d. 210 BC), wearing a neckband. President Donald Trump's name is shown on a tie label in the background, advertising Trump's fashion line of ties (incidentally, made in China).

TRC volunteer, Loren Mealey, writes on Thursday, 3 January 2019:

In our twenty-first century, fashion appears to change every week. A man’s necktie, however, is an accessory that has endured social and cultural transformations for hundreds of years.

The traditional Western necktie has ancient antecedents and forms. The earliest representation of a piece of cloth or another material tied around the neck is a cloth worn by the first emperor of China, Shih Huan Ti, who died in 210 BC.  The accessory was depicted in his mausoleum in Xian, along with 7000 images of his warriors, meticulously carved in terracotta, and each wearing a neck cloth.

In Europe the large ruffs worn by men and women from the mid-sixteenth century for over a hundred years became iconic items in paintings of royalty and affluent merchants. Then came bandanas, bands, bolos, cravats, steinkirks, rabats, ties and all sorts of variations. But from ancient China to the red carpet of fashion shows, this men's wear accessory is consistently associated with identity, power and status.

Lees meer: Ties to history. A new TRC exhibition for 2020

 

Encyclopedia of Embroidery Series update

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Preparations for Vol. 8 of the Encyclopedia of Embroidery series, covering the Antarctic, are already well advanced. Martin Hense, the draughtsman for the full series, just completed the first illustration.

Preparations for Vol. 8 of the Encyclopedia of Embroidery series, covering the Antarctic, are already well advanced. Martin Hense, the draughtsman for the full series, just completed the first illustration.

During the last few months the Encyclopedia of World Embroidery series (Bloomsbury Publishing, London), has been gaining momentum. The first volume on embroidery from the Arab World came out in 2016 (see here) and to everyone’s pleasure won the prestigious international award, the Dartmouth Medal.

Since then we have been working hard on volume 2, which is about embroidery from Central Asia, the Iranian Plateau and the Indian subcontinent (see here). The manuscript for this volume has gone to Bloomsbury and the book should appear by the end of 2019. For the Bloomsbury announcement, click here. Once again many people have been helping with advice, suggestions and with providing actual examples of embroidery.

For the next few years, we are planning the following volumes: 3 – Scandinavia and Western Europe; 4 – East and Southeast Asia; 5 – Eastern Europe and Russia; 6- Sub-Saharan Africa; 7- The Americas. 

 

Lees meer: Encyclopedia of Embroidery Series update

 

De TRC winkel

Het Textile Research Centre wil iedereen de kans geven om ook zelf de Wereld van Kleding en textiel te ontdekken. We zijn daarom constant bezig om ons winkelbestand uit te breiden en een steeds gevarieerder aanbod te presenteren. U kunt nieuwe en tweedehands boeken kopen, ook over Nederlandse klederdracht, tijdschriften, maar ook voorwerpen uit de hele wereldZo verkopen we geweven Syrische halsbanden voor schapen, kleine Mongoolse geldbuidels, geborduurde Turkse laveldelzakjes met oya versiering, versierde hoofdkapjes uit Afghanistan en nog veel meer prachtige en interessante voorwerpen.

In de winkel kunt u ook materiaal kopen voor het veilig bewaren van uw textiele voorwerpen, zoals zuurvrij papier en zuurvrije dozen, kokers voor het oprollen van textiel, modelhoofden en pruiken om te gebruiken bij het tentoonstellen van hoofddeksels. De TRC winkel verkoopt tevens gereedschap, materiaal en draad voor het spinnen van katoen, voor haak- en borduurwerk, maar ook zijdecoconnen voor het maken van zijdepapier

Een aparte afdeling in het winkelassortiment is een grote verscheidenheid aan kralen voor het maken of restaureren van  traditionele Nederlandse klederdracht, zoals imitatie garnetten, bloedkoraal en git, en allerlei soorten en maten van kraaltjes voor borduurwerk

U kunt alle bovengenoemde produkten kopen in de TRC winkel, Hogewoerd 164, Leiden. Een pinautomaat is uiteraard beschikbaar.

 

Zoek in TRC website

TRC in een notendop

Hogewoerd 164, 2311 HW Leiden. Tel. +31 (0)71 5134144 / +31 (0)6 28830428  info@trc-leiden.nl

Openingstijden: Maandag tot/met donderdag, van 10.00 tot 16.00 uur. Andere dagen alleen volgens afspraak. Wegens vakantie gesloten tot 11 augustus.

Bankrekening: NL39 INGB 0002 9823 59, t.a.v. Stichting Textile Research Centre.

Toegang gratis, maar een vrijwillige bijdrage is zeer welkom.

TRC Gallery tentoonstelling, 12 - 15 augustus 2019: Out of Asia: 2000 years of textiles

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Financiële giften

The TRC is afhankelijk van project-financiering en privé-donaties. Al ons werk wordt verricht door vrijwilligers. Ter ondersteuning van de vele activiteiten van het TRC vragen wij U daarom om financiële steun:

Giften kunt U overmaken op bankrekeningnummer NL39 INGB 000 298 2359, t.n.v. Stichting Textile Research Centre.

Omdat het TRC officieel is erkend als een Algemeen Nut Beogende Instelling (ANBI), en daarbij ook nog als een Culturele Instelling, zijn particuliere giften voor 125% aftrekbaar van de belasting, en voor bedrijven zelfs voor 150%. Voor meer informatie, klik hier

Voor het overmaken van giften, kunt U ook gebruik maken van Paypal:


Abonneer u op de TRC Nieuwsbrief