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Fig. 1. Copper and enamel Amsterdam School-style panel, by Marie Kuyken. Photograph: S. Anderson.A recent visit to the Museum Het Schip in Amsterdam sent me scurrying to the TRC ‘s on-line catalogue. Het Schip, in the Amsterdam-West neighbourhood, is a historic, architectural gem in glowing red brickwork. Designed in 1919 by Michel de Klerk, this social housing complex included 102 flats, a post office and a school—made expressly for impoverished, working-class families. It pioneered a new expressionist style of architecture called the Amsterdamse School.

The Amsterdam School’s attention to detail encompassed not just buildings, but also the furniture and lighting inside the buildings—including textile components, from the curtains and rugs, to wall paper and upholstery. Some of the textile designers of this style are the subject of Het Schip’s latest exhibition: “Unseen Talent: Women of the Amsterdam School.”

The Dutch designer Marie Kuyken (1898-1988) was one of the Amsterdam School pioneers. Her father set up an engraving and art studio in Haarlem, where he developed his own style of cloisonné, based on much older Byzantine enamelling techniques.

Marie started working as a designer in his studio as soon as she graduated. Her expressionist style won high praise from critics. One critic wrote in 1918 that in her enamel and copper decorative panels “glows the precious inlay in a beautiful, enchanting splendour of colours” (Fig. 1).

Orenburg is a province in the southeastern part of Russia, along the slopes of the Ural mountains, and close to the borders with Kazakhstan. This is where Europe meets Asia. In this region, at least since the 17th century, there is a strong tradition of lace shawl knitting. This would make the tradition older than Shetland knitting.

Detail of a 'Warm' Orenburg knitted lace shawl. Russia, 20th century (TRC 2025.0751).The shawls are knitted using goat's under hair, or down, from locally bred animals. The yarns are traditionally hand spun, two-ply at a slightly higher twist to create crisp patterns. The fibres of these goats are extremely thin, only 17 microns. This is four times thinner than human hair, and 1.5 times finer compared to angora goats.

De agenda van het TRC wordt steeds uitgebreider, met een breed scala aan workshops, studiedagen, lezingen en cursussen. Hier is de huidige agenda:

Intussen willen we uw aandacht vestigen op een aantal nieuwe evenementen: 21-22 mei: Workshops Lefkara kant; 13 juni: Boekenmarkt; 12-13 september: Open Monumentendagen.

The Textile Research Centre, Leiden.From early 2026, the Textile Research Centre, Leiden, the Netherlands, is offering a total of seven junior and four senior fellowships for up to six months each. The first junior fellow has started her work in Leiden in April.

The fellowships are being sponsored by the Gieskes-Strijbis Foundation, Amsterdam. Fellows are invited to carry out research based on the TRC’s extensive textiles and dress collection of some 53,000 objects (click here for the catalogue). The junior fellows are supervised and assisted by TRC staff; senior fellows carry out independent research.

We are now opening the second round of the fellowships that covers:

• Two junior positions
• One senior position

These will be starting in October 2026 (with a degree of flexibility), for a duration of up to 6 months. Applications for these positions should be submitted by email to the TRC by 20 June 2026 (Dit e-mailadres wordt beveiligd tegen spambots. JavaScript dient ingeschakeld te zijn om het te bekijken.)  with the reference: ‘Fellowship programme Junior/ Senior' (depending on the position applied for).

Fig. 1. Finishing the move: Group photograph with the lads (and Gillian), 10 April. Photograph by Emilie Lambert.Another busy week at the TRC! The painters, electricians, curtain and security people have finished their work. The builders are doing the last few jobs and making plans for what needs to be done later in the year, especially on the outside.

The last deliveries for now by the removal company have just taken place (Fig. 1) and then, hopefully, there will be a period of a little peace and quiet, so we have time to get used to the building and see and discuss what needs to be done.

We are talking with Stichting Monumentenbezit (the new owners of B6) and others, for example, about having an annex in the garden for the permanent storage of the TRC Collection. Leiden Council and Monumentenbezit have already given their permission for the annex to be built, and now we have to find the funding. As you can imagine, there is much to think about and do on this subject matter.

We have also been discussing what should be done with the 150-200 year old Amsterdam waffle-house (or was it for pancakes?), which since the 1920s has been a feature of what is now the TRC garden, but originates from a bridge in Amsterdam (close to the current Koningsplein). It is a lovely wooden building, but in a poor condition. The romantic in me can see summer events, including lectures, buffet dinners, workshops on fibre plants and natural dyeing, etc. In addition, I know someone close to me who wants to write his memoirs there. But again this is a subject for later thoughts and discussions!

Fig. 1. Postage stamp issued in Cyprus in 1981 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the visit of Leonardo da Vinci to Cyprus. Above: The Duomo in Milan. Below: A piece of Lefkara lace.The TRC Leiden is very pleased to announce a special workshop on Lefkara or Lefkarika lace, scheduled for 21 May, and repeated on 22 May. The workshops are given by Eleni Anemomilou, who is coming especially to The Netherlands to give these and other workshops. Her trip is organised by the Cyprus Handicraft Service. 

Lefkara lace or whitework is one of the embroidery techniques that were traditionally practised in Cyprus. It is a form of cutwork with satin stitch details. It is often classed as a form of embroidered lace. Nelleke Ganzevoort wrote a detailed blog about this fascinating technique five years ago, which the TRC published on 21 December 2021. In 2009, the Lefkara lace technique was included in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Lefkara lace is said to originate from the village of (Pano or Kato) Lefkara, Cyprus, and is locally called tayiadha (compare the Italian term punto tagliato, for cutwork ). Lefkara lace is said to have been developed in the time of the Venetian occupation of Cyprus (1489-1571), when reticella work was introduced to the island and local women copied the whitework's appearance, but using a different technique.

The move to Boerhaavelaan 6 is nearly finished, just a few more weeks and all the rebuilding, painting, furnishing, packing and putting away of boxes will be over! A great relief to all.

I would just like to extend a big ‘Thank You’ to everyone who has made a donation to the TRC moving fund. It made such a difference to have your support, best wishes and interest in what we are doing and plan to do. Please feel free to come and see what you have helped to create - the new and improved TRC is an elegant, early 20th century town villa!

Inevitably, we continue looking for help with different projects, and any further financial assistance will be greatly appreciated.

The TRC will open again to the public on Monday 11th May, but in the meantime, workshops, study days and lectures are already being presented. And I can assure you, there is lots more to come!.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director TRC, 4 April 2026.

Although we will not officially reopen the TRC to the public until Monday, the 4h May, we are already welcoming individuals and groups visitors at our new premises at Boerhaavelaan 6, as well as starting a busy programme of workshops, study days and lectures. And of course there was the recent book presentation with the Mayor of Leiden. 

Taiwanese delegation visiting the TRC, with Gillian Vogelsang in their midst. They are standing in the garden of Boerhaavelaan 6. In the background is the garden pavilion.