Tribal Jewelry & Textiles Fair

The TRC will be represented on the first day of the Tribal Jewelry & Textiles Fair, which will take place on Saturday and Sunday, 29-30 September, in the De Duif, Prinsengracht 756, 1017 LD Amsterdam. The church De Duif will be open from 10.30 - 17.00. For more information, see www.tribaljewelry.nl. The TRC will have a table with information on Saturday. Gillian Vogelsang, director TRC, will give a lecture on the Chinese lotus shoes from 13.00.

 

TRC Facebook, now more than 6000 followers

Thanks to the indefatigable work of TRC volunteer, Shelley Anderson, today (Monday 10th September) we crossed the marker of 6000 followers of the TRC Facebook page. Congratulations to Shelley, and to all the other TRC volunteers who made this possible. 

 

New acquisitions for the TRC collection

Hand embroidered bride's dress from 19th century China, decorated with wisteria flowers woven in a delicate tapestry weave (TRC 2018.2840).

Hand embroidered bride's dress from 19th century China, decorated with wisteria flowers woven in a delicate tapestry weave (TRC 2018.2840).

Saturday 8th September. Gillian Vogelsang, director TRC, writes:

The last two weeks has seen a very diverse group of textiles and garments being donated to the TRC Leiden. These include nineteenth century Chinese garments, some of them for court officials, another for a bride, and also a number of Zoroastrian textiles and garments from Yazd in Iran and dating to the early 20th century (see below). The Zoroastrian garments are part of a donation by the Katayoun Keyani and Mehraban Bondarian family in America.

There is also a group of Peruvian hand knitted caps form the 1970’s (compare TRC 2018.2913). Some of these will appear in the TRC’s exhibition about hand knitting, planned for the autumn of 2019. And from the Indian subcontinent we received a donation of ralli quilts from Pakistan/western India, and these date from the 1960’s and 70’s (compare TRC 2018.2896, TRC 2018.2897, TRC 2018.2898 and TRC 2018.2899).

Read more: New acquisitions for the TRC collection

 

Quiltnieuws article about the TRC

The September 2018 issue of the Dutch journal Quiltnieuws includes an article about the TRC. Please click here to download the article in PdF format.

 

Sunday afternoon lecture, 16th September: Big hair and bling.

Romano-Egyptian mummy portrait of a girl , early second century AD (courtesy Liebieghaus, Frankfurt am Main).

Romano-Egyptian mummy portrait of a girl , early second century AD (courtesy Liebieghaus, Frankfurt am Main).

This Sunday afternoon lecture will be given by dr. Tineke Rooijakkers of Amsterdam Free University, who specialises in Middle Eastern clothing of the Greek/Roman and post-Classical period.

Tineke Rooijakkers will be talking about female fashion in Late Antique Egypt, and how the use of hairstyles (huge wigs and hair extensions) and flashy jewellery became an important element in a fashionable woman's wardrobe in the early centuries of the first millennium AD. The talk will be based on finds from archaeological excavations and the study of paintings.

Date: 16th September 2018. Time: 14.00 - 15.30. Venue: TRC, Hogewoerd 164, 2311 HW Leiden. Entrance: 5 euro. Language: Dutch.

Number of available places is limited, so advance registration is required: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wednesday morning workshop, 26th September: The Holbein stitch.

Portrait of King Henry VIII, by Hans Holbein the Younger. The embroidery at the front of his shirt is worked with the Holbein, or double running stitch.

Portrait of King Henry VIII, by Hans Holbein the Younger. The embroidery at the front of his shirt is worked with the Holbein, or double running stitch.

On Wednesday morning, 26th September 2018, the TRC will organise a special interactive workshop about the Holbein stitch and its history. The Holbein stitch (also known as the double running stitch) is a method of creating an outline design that is reversible – the same design appears on the front and back of the ground cloth. This type of embroidery was very popular in the sixteenth century and was often depicted in portraits by the famous painter, Hans Holbein the Younger (1497-1543), including those of Henry VIIIth of England and his entourage. The workshop will include a background lecture given by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood and a practical given by Joke van Soest, an embroidery teacher who is affiliated with the TRC. This workshop will last until c. 15.00, so participants are asked to bring their own lunch !

Date: 26th September 2018. Time: 10.00 until 15.00. Fee: 35 euros. Venue: TRC, Hogewoerd 164, 2311 HW Leiden. Language: Dutch. Please register well in advance at  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

 

 

 

 

 

Sunday afternoon workshop 30th Sept: Historical quilting techniques and designs.

Quilted coat from Iran, early 20th century (TRC 1997.0285).

Quilted coat from Iran, early 20th century (TRC 1997.0285).

This Sunday afternoon workshop will be given by Dr Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, director TRC and is a repeat of a workshop given on 29th August.

Quilting is often regarded as a relatively modern, typically Western technique, but in fact it is an ancient form of sewing that can be found in many parts of the world.

In this workshop she will be discussing various historical forms, some of them nearly two thousand years old, and originating from Europe, America, the Middle East and Asia. The workshop has theoretical and practical elements.

Participants will be encouraged and assisted in trying out various historical and non-Western techniques. The workshop will also relate to the exhibition 'Sherry's American quilts', which is on display at the TRC from 20th August until 18th October.

Date: Sunday 30th September 2018. Time: 13.00 - 16.00. Costs: 25 euros including materials, tea/coffee. Location: TRC, Hogewoerd 164, 2311 HW Leiden. Participants: maximum of 15 people. Please register in advance at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

 

New exhibition : Sherry's American quilts: 20 August - 18 October

A late 19th century velvet crazy quilt from the USA (TRC 2018.2407).

A late 19th century velvet crazy quilt from the USA (TRC 2018.2407).

The TRC has organised a special exhibition in order to celebrate the recent donation of over twenty quilts and tops by the American collector, Sherry Cook. The exhibition includes many examples that this summer arrived at the TRC in Leiden. The exhibition will be presented for only two months, from Monday 20th August until and including 18th October. Sherry Cook has written a brief blog about the donation. See also the brief blog about the Charles Lindbergh quilt.

There will be a workshop on Wednesday 29th August (from 10.00 - 13.00 h) about the history of quilting and the archaeological evidence for a variety of different quilting techniques. The workshop will be given by Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood (director of the TRC) and is a continuation of the workshop that was given earlier in the year. The August workshop will pay particular attention to the US Quilts exhibition, and provide the participants the chance to quilt with various types of materials, including felt and silk, as well as look at some historical quilting techniques from medieval Egypt. Please make sure to register well in advance ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it )!

Next to the normal opening hours of the TRC, we will also open our doors on Sunday 2nd September from 12.00 until 17.00, so that many more people can come and see this special exhibition and donation.

  • SHERRY'S AMERICAN QUILTS: An exhibition celebrating the Sherry Cook donation
  • 20th August 2018 to and including 18th October 2018
  • TRC Leiden, Hogewoerd 164, 2311 HW Leiden, The Netherlands.
  • Entrance is free
 

An intriguing quilted shirt for a Pashai man from Afghanistan

A quilted shirt for a Pashai man, Afghanistan (TRC 2018.2581).

A quilted shirt for a Pashai man, Afghanistan (TRC 2018.2581).

Gillian Vogelsang writes about a recent trip to Cambridge:

Willem and I have just had a textile weekend in Cambridge, England. It was meant to be a mixture of holiday and work, but embroidery dominated the time. We were there to talk with Caroline Stone and John Gillow about the Encyclopedia of Embroidery series (Bloomsbury), Afghanistan and the Indian subcontinent embroidery in particular. It was intensive and hundreds of photographs were made, notes taken, embroideries examined and ‘new’ stitches identified. Not so surprising, perhaps, a number of textiles were acquired so that further technical analysis could took place at the TRC in Leiden.

Read more: An intriguing quilted shirt for a Pashai man from Afghanistan

 

Encyclopedia of Embroidery Series update

Preparations for Vol. 8 of the Encyclopedia of Embroidery series, covering the Antarctic, are already well advanced. Martin Hense, the draughtsman for the full series, just completed the first illustration.

Preparations for Vol. 8 of the Encyclopedia of Embroidery series, covering the Antarctic, are already well advanced. Martin Hense, the draughtsman for the full series, just completed the first illustration.

During the last few months the Encyclopedia of World Embroidery series (Bloomsbury Publishing, London), has been gaining momentum. The first volume on embroidery from the Arab World came out in 2016 (see here) and to everyone’s pleasure won the prestigious international award, the Dartmouth Medal.

Since then we have been working hard on volume 2, which is about embroidery from Central Asia, the Iranian Plateau and the Indian subcontinent (see here). The manuscript for this volume will be going to Bloomsbury in early autumn and it should appear by the end of 2019. Once again many people have been helping with advice, suggestions and with providing actual examples of embroidery.

For the next few years, we are planning the following volumes: 3 – Scandinavia and Western Europe; 4 – East and Southeast Asia; 5 – Eastern Europe and Russia; 6- Sub-Saharan Africa; 7- The Americas. 

 

Read more: Encyclopedia of Embroidery Series update

 

Newsletter TRC Silk Stockings Project

TRC Silk Stockings Project: Samples made by the volunteers

TRC Silk Stockings Project: Samples made by the volunteers

A Newsletter, in Dutch and English, on the progress of the TRC Silk Stockings Project, which relates to the reconstruction of silk stockings recently discovered in a seventeenth century shipwreck found off the coast of the island of Texel in the north of The Netherlands, was published on 5th July and can be read here, or click on the illustration. The project is sponsored by the Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TRC receives grant to update its website and improve the online catalogue

Thanks to the generosity of the Prins Bernhard Cultuurfonds and the Themafonds Digitalizering Erfgoedcollecties Zuid-Holland, the TRC Leiden has received a substantial grant to update the online catalogue of the TRC collection, improve and extend the digital database and to revamp the internet presence of the TRC in general. The work will start very shortly in re-styling the database, updating programmes, and getting even more photographs and information online!

Read more: TRC receives grant to update its website and improve the online catalogue

 

An intriguing parliamentary uniform from Holland

Embroidered coat of the parliamentary uniform of Laurens de Groot (TRC 2018.2133a).

Embroidered coat of the parliamentary uniform of Laurens de Groot (TRC 2018.2133a).

A few weeks ago the TRC received a donation of a group of items belonging to Mariet Portheine-ter Kuile. This donation included fifty Berlin wool work charts that formed the basis for a digital exhibition on this subject [click here]. Since then various other items belonging to the Portheine-ter Kuile family have been given to the TRC, including a gala uniform associated with the Tweede Kamer der Staten-Generaal (commonly known as the Tweede Kamer), the Dutch equivalent of the British House of Commons.

The uniform consists of a gold embroidered coat, matching trousers, a bicorn hat with orange cockade, gloves and, of course, a sword. The uniform belonged to the politician, Frederick (Frits) Portheine (1923-1990), who had been a member of the Tweede Kamer between 1963 and 1981. This type of uniform was worn by members of the Tweede Kamer in the late 19th and early 20th centuries on all formal occasions. There were various rules concerning how such garments were worn, as well as colour coding. Ministers, for example, had white trousers with a dark blue coat, while members of the Kamer had dark blue trousers and coat. So what is the history of this particular uniform?

 

Read more: An intriguing parliamentary uniform from Holland

 

NewTextileBooks May 2018

The number of textile books being produced is steadily increasing and it is clear from the range of subjects covered in the following list that authors from diverse academic and non-academic backgrounds have become involved in placing textiles and dress within their well-earned positions in cultural studies - in all its many forms. To make it easier for the reader, the TRC librarians are in the process of putting all the recommended books, discussed in the preceding years, into a single list based on author and title, which will then be linked to the TRC Library catalogue. Anyhow, below is a varied list of some of the publications recently added to the TRC library. For the online catalogue of the library, click here. For the list of reviews published in December last year, click here.

 

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Donations

 
Financial donations to the TRC can be made via Paypal; Donaties aan de TRC kunnen worden overgemaakt via Paypal:
 
 

Subscribe to the TRC Newsletter


TRC in a nutshell

Hogewoerd 164, 2311 HW Leiden. Tel. +31 (0)71 5134144 / +31 (0)6 28830428   info@trc-leiden.nl

Opening times: Monday to Thursday: 10.00-16.00 hrs, other days by appointment.

Bank account number: NL39 INGB 0002 9823 59

Entrance is free, but donations are always welcome !

Current exhibition: Sherry Cook's Americaan quilts, until 18th October

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Donations

The TRC is dependent on project support and individual donations. All of our work is being carried out by volunteers. To support the TRC activities, we therefore welcome your financial assistance: donations can be transferred to bank account number NL39 INGB 000 298 2359, in the name of the Textile Research Centre, Leiden. Since the TRC is officially recognised as a non-profit making cultural institution (ANBI), donations are tax deductible for 125% for individuals, and 150% for commercial companies. For more information, click here
 
Financial donations to the TRC can be made via Paypal: