Augusta de Gunzbourg, TRC, 2 March 2024
What did Chinese emperors, empresses and their court wear at the turn of the 20th century, and what did other people wear at that time? The TRC will soon (28 March !) be opening an exhibition on the theme of clothing that was worn during the last imperial dynasty of China, namely the Qing dynasty (1644–1911).
Early 20th century Manchu Chinese embroidered gown (TRC 2023.2130).
The TRC can do so, thanks to a recent donation by Quirina Vreeburg and our already existing pieces, which have given us the chance to showcase a beautiful array of embroidered and woven dragon robes, decorated mandarin officials’ gowns, intricate women’s hair and body jewellery, embroidered shoes, Chinese-Indonesian garments, and so on.
Early 20th century Manchu Chinese woven gown (TRC 2023.2134).The material, shapes, style and patterns of clothing in Qing China had a strictly regulated language. Clothing was regarded as a reflection of ethnic, social and political identity.
From mythical creatures embroidered on silk gowns, butterflies made from kingfisher feathers and mounted on silver hairpins, to simple netted bamboo undercoats (TRC 2023.2071), lotus shoes and 'boat' platform shoes: every part of an outfit said something about the wearer, his position and identity.
The exhibition, curated by Augusta de Gunzbourg of the TRC, gives an overview of many elements of clothing worn at the dynastic court (from head to toe, literally) and by other people, but also gives a wider context to these garments.
Woven and hand embroidered woman's jacket from early 20th century China (TRC 2023.2069).Furthermore, the garments in this exhibition were worn during a moment of cultural and political transition in Chinese history, as the last ruling dynasty in China gave way to the 'modern' Chinese Republic.
But the exhibition also highlights Chinese clothing worn at that tumultuous time outside of China, as for instance in Indonesia, where political developments were very different from those in mainland China.
Nineteenth century Manchu Chinese 'boat' platform shoes (TRC 2023.0925a-b).The exhibition will be officially opened on Thursday, 28 March, at 18.30 (doors open at 18.00) by Prof. Annetje Ottow, President of the Executive Board of Leiden University, Her family contributed to the exhibition (and the TRC Collection) by the donation of Chinese-style garments worn by relatives in the former Dutch East Indies in the early 20th century (see a previous blog).
If you want to attend the opening, please register at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
The exhibition will be open to the public from Monday 1 April.
Early 20th century Chinese headdress, with silk pompoms, glass beads and tassels, as well as floral and insect motifs, some in silk, others in kingfisher feathers (TRC 2023.2518).
Hairpin from early 20th century China, with a small sprig of flowers and leaves made from gold coloured metal, kingfisher feathers and a coral bead (TRC 2023.2526).
