Besime Alikisioglu, Master's student at Leiden UniversityAs a Museum Studies master’s student from Turkey, at Leiden University, I was overwhelmed when I saw the large Turkish collection recently donated to the Textile Research Centre (TRC) in Leiden (for two previous blogs on the subject, see 9 June and 2 July). I felt a mix of excitement, amazement, and emotion. I was impressed by the variety and the care taken with the items.
Born and raised in Istanbul, I grew up visiting Topkapı Palace and the Istanbul archaeological museums, a habit that continued during my years as an Art History student. The collection felt like drawing a historical chronology, each garment a fragment of Anatolia’s layered past, stitched with memories of Ottoman heritage, rural traditions, and shifting borders.
What struck me most was the incredible range of objects included, garments, jewellery, and çarık (leather shoes), not only from Turkey but also from surrounding regions such as Syria, Armenia, and even Central Asia, reflecting the deep interconnection of cultures across time and space. This was not just a donation of fabric and fibre; it was a gift of memory, craftsmanship, and identity, and it resonated deeply with my own academic and personal journey.
Women's jacket from Diyarbakir, Turkey, late 20th century (TRC 2025.0800a).As someone who has found textile heritage fascinating, I know how rare it is to encounter such a comprehensive, well-preserved, and regionally diverse collection in one place, especially outside of its country of origin.
Growing up, I appreciated the artistry of handwoven silks, the symbolism in embroidery patterns, and the quiet authority of traditional garments like the entari or kaftan in my grandmother's home. But here, in a city like Leiden, far from Istanbul’s bustling streets and museum corridors, the same spirit was alive and present.
The items were handled with respect, contextualised with care, and made available to the world through the TRC’s open-access policy. The fact that the first batch of the collection is already being catalogued and made available for public and scholarly use, shows a commitment not just to preserve, but also to knowledge sharing and accessibility, values that are vital in museum work today.
Women's apron from Keles, Turkey, 20th century (TRC 2025.0801k).
This donation also reminded me of the power of individual and collective responsibility in preserving cultural heritage. The collector’s decision to entrust the collection to an independent research institute such as the TRC, reflects a belief in scholarship as a living practice, one rooted in exchange, learning and trust. It challenges us to think beyond national borders and see heritage as something shared and cared for collectively. In a time when heritage is so often politicised or at risk of being lost due to conflict, migration, or neglect, this gesture felt like an act of hope.
Detail of a women's headscarf, Sille, near Konya, Turkey, early 20th century (TRC 2025.0803e).It encouraged me to think about the kind of museum professional I want to become, someone who facilitates dialogue across cultures, who works with communities rather than merely displaying them, and who treats objects not just as data points but as vessels of human experience, while also challenging the conventional, thematic compartmentalisation of museum displays that often overlook the intercultural entanglements of material culture, reminding us that we must remain researchers above all, constantly attentive to the layered, crossing narratives embedded in each object.
In this collection, I saw not only the history of my homeland, but also the potential for textile studies to foster connections across continents, disciplines, and generations. It motivated me to continue exploring and engaging with heritage in ways that are inclusive, dialogic, and grounded in human experience.
9 July 2025
