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A Grande Dame of Archaeological Textiles

 

Two weeks before the opening of the TRC exhibition about hand looms and textiles, in May 2014, the TRC was given an unique and historical collection of spinning and weaving equipment that was originally gathered and used by the British textile historian, Grace Mary Crowfoot, between 1909 and 1937. The collection was kindly given to the TRC by John Crowfoot, a grandson of Grace. The objects in question come from Egypt, Palestine, Sudan, as well as various European countries. These are places where Molly Crowfoot travelled to and lived in with her husband and children.

 

In order to celebrate both this donation and the importance of Molly Crowfoot as a Grande Dame of archaeological textiles it was decided to make a special section in the exhibition.

 

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Grace Mary Hood was born in 1877, the oldest of six children, and grew up south of Lincoln (England). She was known as ‘Molly’ to her family and friends. She came from a county family that encouraged the children to be all-rounders, to ride as well as to read They were all musical as well. Her grandfather collected Egyptian antiquities, which put Molly at a young age in contact with archaeologists such as the famous British Egyptologist, William Flinders Petrie.

 

Molly went to finishing school in Paris and wanted to attend Lady Margaret Hall, Oxford, but her mother discouraged it, as she was a ‘lady’ and had no need for further education: Molly would spend her entire life learning new skills and sharing her passion for learning with others. While wintering in San Remo in 1906, for example, Molly took part in botanical expeditions in the Ligurian Alps and later helped to excavate a prehistoric interment in a cave at Tana Bertrand (1908-1909), where over 300 beads were found that she later published.

 

She became interested in Christian Socialism and women’s rights (becoming a professional midwife) as well as spinning and weaving. In 1909 she married John Winter Crowfoot, the Assistant Director of Education in the Sudan, and the next few years were spent in Cairo and Khartoum. It was in Egypt that Molly learned photography and published a work on desert flowers. During this period their three elder daughters were born: Dorothy (Hodgkin) a scientist who in 1964 won the Nobel Prize for Chemistry; Joan (Payne) who became an Egyptologist and curator at the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford; and Elisabeth who, after World War Two and an acting career, became another Grande Dame of archaeological textiles, at first helping her mother. At the start of the First World War (1914-1918) the family were on leave in England and it was decided that John should return to Egypt, while Molly stayed at home with the children. In 1915 Molly (without the children) returned to her husband in Cairo and in 1916 they moved to Sudan. There, isolated from expatriate society, Molly visited the Sudanese women of Omdurman, learning how to weave but also shocked to learn about Female Genital Mutilation. She became an early campaigner against it, setting up the Sudan School of Midwifery to combat the practice.

 

In 1918 John, Molly and their new baby, Diana (in adult life a geographer), returned to England and were re-united with their other daughters. John went back to Sudan, and soon Molly followed. Now she began to publish, putting her practical knowledge of spinning and weaving to good effect. They enabled her, for instance, to understand and explain how a Pharonic loom worked – and how little it had changed from those used by her Sudanese friends and acquaintances.

 

Deeply affected by the death of all her four younger brothers, during and after the First World War, Molly became a passionate supporter of the League of Nations Union. In the 1920s she took her eldest daughter Dorothy with her to Geneva to attend sessions of the new League.

 

John Crowfoot retired as Director of Education in the Sudan in 1926 and was immediately asked to become the Director of the British School of Archaeology in Jerusalem. In Palestine he was in charge of several excavations, most notably at Samaria-Sebaste. While the older girls visited, Molly was constantly at his side, organizing the smooth running of the excavations, working in the field (on basketry and other crafts besides textiles), as well as seeing the excavation reports through to publication. She maintained her interests in the local fauna, producing an early work of ethno-botany in From Cedar to Hyssop (1938). She published several additional papers, including impressions on the bases of pottery from the Chalcolithic period at Jericho.

 

In 1937 the family returned permanently to England and Molly continued to work on a variety of publications, about textiles from finds around the world as well as the nearby Sutton Hoo Ship burial. During World War II (1939-1945) she published a joint paper on a decorative garment from the tomb of Tutankhamun. As part of this work she rewove various of the applied bands from the garment in order to see how they were made: an actual example of one of these bands woven by Molly is on display in the TRC exhibition. After the war, her textile work continued, notably after the discovery of the Dead Sea Scrolls in the 1950s: she published a paper on the Qumran wrappers. A number of these textiles are on display in the TRC exhibition.

Molly Crowfoot died from leukemia in 1957 and is buried in Geldeston churchyard, Norfolk, with her husband Johnny under a large and shady Cedar of Lebanon.

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The director of the TRC, Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, was a student of both Joan and Elisabeth Crowfoot, two daughters of Grace Crowfoot, while working on her Ph.D on archaeological textiles at Manchester University (under Dr. John Peter Wild, another grand figure in archaeological textiles). The Crowfoot collection is currently being studied and prepared for publication by Shelley Anderson, Jasmijn Nobelen, a first year archaeology student, and other team members of the TRC. And so the flame for studying archaeological textiles is being passed down to the next generation, here in Leiden.

Embroidered bridal jacket from the Asir, Southwest Saudi Arabia (TRC 2006.0041).Embroidered bridal jacket from the Asir, Southwest Saudi Arabia (TRC 2006.0041).Well, I have just come back from a 6-day trip to Riyadh, Saudi Arabia at the kind invitation of the Saudi Heritage Preservation Society. I gave a workshop on the history of embroidery from around the world to a large group of Saudi women and talked with various specialists about the role and types of embroidery in Saudi Arabia.

It is very clear that the love of embroidery is very deep in the ‘Kingdom’ and they have a long and vary varied tradition of this technique. It is literally one of the hidden gems of Saudi life! There are various groups recording the many forms of embroidery to be found throughout this vast country. At the moment this information is only available in Arabic, however they are actively translating the books into English. We will let you know when they appear, as these volumes will be worth having in any embroidery library.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 21 April 2014

Jordan Conference and visit to Tiraz!

25th – 31st March 2014

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, director of the TRC, has just come back from a textile conference in Amman, Jordan, organised by the Centre for Textile Research, Copenhagen and the Jordan Museum, Amman. For a copy of her report click here.

There was also an opportunity to see the Tiraz, the new home of the Widad Kawar collection, which is involved in displaying, recording and preserving various aspects of Palestinian history and material culture. Although the Centre is not yet open to the general public, when it does later in 2014 it should be regarded as a must for any textile lover.

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Expedition Silk Road

Hermitage Museum, Amsterdam

                       

Expedition Silk Road features 250 objects--murals, gold, glass and silk--in a new exhibit at the Hermitage Museum, Amsterdam. Some amazing textiles are on display, including linen doll's clothing from the 8th-9th century; Buddhist banners from the same period; silk and fur kaftans, and a 2000-year-old pair of baggy silk trousers www.hermitage.nl from a burial mound in Northern Mongolia. "Expedition Silk Road" is open until 5 September. For more information see www.hermitage.nl (Shelley)

 

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Textile Moments in Prague, Czech Republic

 

I have just come back from a three day visit to Prague and thought you might be interested in the following collections:

Prague Castle Museum: I was in the museum of the history of Prague Castle and found that there is an amazing collection of medieval textiles and garments that have come from various local graves. The textiles include many silk pieces of various origins, including Spain, Italy, Byzantium and the Middle East. There was one piece that was clearly derived from a Sassanian original with paired birds and a pearl border. Some of the silks and garments are difficult to see, but if you are in Prague the museum is well worth a visit.

Treasury of the Holy Cross: near to the museum of Prague Castle there is the Treasury of the Holy Cross, part of the St. Vitas Cathedral. The treasury includes a number of medieval textiles and garments including a pearl ornamented crown, mitre, and four amazing panels for a dalmatica. In addition, there is a chasuble, stola and maniple made out of decoratively woven straw and further embellished with straw embroidery (couching). Well worth seeing.

Museum of Decorative Arts: Another place to visit in Prague is the (Uměleckoprůmyslové muzeum v Prazeor; Museum of Decorative Arts), which is on the other side of the river to the castle and cathedral. The museum has a large permanent exhibition about textiles and urban dress, called the History of Fibre: Textiles and Fashion. Down the centre of the room is a fashion parade of indoor and outdoor garments spanning the late nineteenth to the latter half of the twentieth century. These are displayed so that you can see the front and back of the garments. Down the sides of the room are chests of drawers full of textiles – based on embroidered, lace, printed, and woven types, and so forth. There is a mezzanine floor with a collection of embroidered and woven ecclesiastical garments and dresses for the Virgin Mary and various female saints.

Gillian Vogelsang, 6 April 2014

 

The TRC recently received a most unexpected, but very welcome gift from the famous textile printing company of Vlisco, Helmond, the Netherlands (TRC 2013.0317). It is a long length of cloth decorated with four panels depicting Crown Prince Willem Alexander, the Prince of Orange, and his wife, Princess Maxima. The design has been especially designed to celebrate the forthcoming royal investiture of Willem Alexander as the new King of the Netherlands, on 30thApril 2013.

Vlisco wax cloth commemorating the investiture of King Willem Alexander of the Netherlands, 30th April 2013 (TRC 013.0317).Vlisco wax cloth commemorating the investiture of King Willem Alexander of the Netherlands, 30th April 2013 (TRC 013.0317).

The firm of Vlisco was established in 1846 and has since been producing textiles, often imitating batik, for the Dutch East Indies and Indonesia, and from 1876 the firm has also produced fabrics  for the West and Central African markets.

The design of the Willem Alexander textile follows the style of printing, called “wax hollandais”, which was developed by Vlisco over the last 167 years and which is especially geared towards West and Central African taste.  The cloth is part of a very long African tradition whereby historic and important events are celebrated by the creation of commemorative designs on cloth.  This particular design, however, is not for sale, but was especially printed by Vlisco to be used as a gift for a select group of Vlisco contacts. The TRC is very proud to have been included among this select group.

Gillian Vogelsang, 21 April 2013

Feestrok celebrating the liberation of The Netherlands in May 1945 (TRC 2011.0001a).Feestrok celebrating the liberation of The Netherlands in May 1945 (TRC 2011.0001a).On the first day back after the Christmas and New Year break we received an anonymous donation of a very special garment. It is a feestrok ("festival skirt") or bevrijdingsrok ("liberation skirt") from 1948, which was made, together with many other comparable skirts, to celebrate the liberation of The Netherlands in May 1945.

The idea of the feestrok has its origins in 1943, when Mrs. Mies Boissevain-Van Lennep (1896-1965), a member of the Dutch resistance, was imprisoned by the German occupying forces. She was secretly sent a scarf (lappendasje) made up of small pieces of cloth taken from the clothing of family and friends.

Upon her safe return, and following the end of the war in 1945, Mies Boissevain-Van Lennep, together with a group of other women, decided to create a garment that represented: "Unity in diversity" (eenheid in veelheid); "New from old" (nieuw uit oud); "Reconstruction from destruction" (opbouw uit afbraak); "One garment makes unity" (één dracht maakt eendracht).

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Stichting Textile Research Centre

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Donations

The TRC is dependent on project support and individual donations. All of our work is being carried out by volunteers. To support the TRC activities, we therefore welcome your financial assistance: donations can be transferred to bank account number (IBAN) NL39 INGB 000 298 2359, in the name of the Stichting Textile Research Centre. BIC code is: INGBNL2A.

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Since the TRC is officially recognised as a non-profit making cultural institution (ANBI), donations are tax deductible for 125% for individuals, and 150% for commercial companies. For more information, click here