Blog

For five full working days, an international team of participants with a particular interest and need for a deeper understanding of textiles, were gathered around Dr Vogelsang-Eastwood at the Textile Research Centre in Leiden, the Netherlands. The world-renowned expert in the analysis and history of all kinds of textiles meticulously introduced us to the characteristics of global textiles and textile making.

Finishing the course with a very special textile from the TRC collection (TRC 2014.0938): A 9-m long 'pronkrol' (long sampler) from the Netherlands, made in 1909 by Cato de Keijzer, aged 15.

Some months ago Gillian Vogelsang wrote about a donation of textiles collected by Joop and May Hobijn-Roth. Part of that donation was an interesting collection of embroidered bands and patches (for instance, TRC 2021.2233-2250).

Factory embroidered band, the Netherlands, 1920s-1930s (TRC 2021.2238).

The last ten days have been very diverse and yet at the same time characteristic for the work and activities associated with the TRC Leiden.

The participants of the November 2021 TRC Intensive Textile Course, at the end of the five days! The second woman from the left is wearing a hand-woven Estonian skirt.

On Wednesday (10th November) I took part in an online conference about Textile Tokens that was organised by Polly Leonard of the journal Selvedge (London). A variety of talks on very different subjects were given, including one by Prof. John Styles about textile tokens that came with babies and young children associated with the Foundling Hospital, London in the 18th century. Willem and I visited the former Hospital some years ago; a fascinating, and at the same time very sad place.

The TRC has recently been offered two impressive and fascinating collections of Central European and Balkan textiles, clothing and jewellery, as well as items from other parts of the world, including Afghanistan and Central Asia, Georgia, Japan, Palestine, Syria, and America. The last include a group of beautiful Middle American blouses with reverse appliqué (mola), not to mention 36 traditional American quilts!

A small part of the collection of Central and Southeast European garments, donated to the TRC, now still in Paris.

There was an international press conference this morning in Leiden to present the official programme of Leiden: European City of Science 2022. The press conference was organised to present and discuss this prestigious event and what it will involve for Leiden.

The main theme of Leiden: City of Science 2022 is Curiosity, with the idea that people will attend the many planned events from a feeling of interest and the desire to learn more. Many different groups and institutes are involved, ranging from Leiden University, scientific and technical institutes and companies, the many Leiden-based museums, as well as a range of cultural and social groups, And of course, the TRC is part of the programme!

There are many sub-themes. Every day, for all 365 days of 2022. Each day a different topic will be explored within the wider world of science, society, art, culture and artisanship. Some of these topics are obvious – atmosphere, stone, virus, drones, even beer. Others are less so, such as quiz, rendez-vous, and co-operation, but all the more stimulating for being not so obvious.

Detail of an early 20th century baptismal gown from Friesland, the Netherlands, with shadow work embroidery in herringbone stitch along the collar (TRC 2019.0028).Shadow work is a form of needlework that is worked on the reverse side of the ground cloth and leaves a 'shadow' on the obverse, 'top' side. In order to obtain the best effect a sheer (transparent or semi-transparent) material is needed for the ground, such as chiffon or a fine batiste cotton.

There are three basic forms of this type of needlework, namely (A) embroidered, (B) appliqué and (C) padded shadow work. In addition, there are combined forms, such as shadow work embroidery with appliqué.

Woman's carpet coat, 1970s, Western (TRC 2019.2858).A little while ago I took part in an informal discussion here in the Netherlands about how different cultures over the centuries have been involved in the mending, repairing, re-using and re-cycling of garments (more recently known as up-cycling). This is a subject that is growing in popularity with the increasing attention being paid to sustainability in all its many forms and the growing awareness of the disastrous environmental impact of the so-called fast-fashion, mainly produced in China. The London based journal, Selvedge, for example, has recently had a complete edition (vol. 102) dedicated to the concept of mending.

During the discussion, someone mentioned a carpet coat that she had worn in the 1970s. The coat had been made by the donor’s mother from a carpet they had at home and no longer used. The coat is long gone, but still fondly remembered. And some time ago we happened to put an example of a Dutch carpet coat online (TRC 2019.2858). Like the coat in the discussion, this addition to the TRC collection dates to the 1970s and was home made.

On Saturday we were the venue for a meeting of OIDFA (Organisation Internationale de la Dentelle au Fuseau et à l'Aiguille) the Netherlands, an international lace making group. People came from various parts of the Netherlands, including Groningen, Schagen, Amsterdam and indeed the Leiden region.

Early 20th century example of linen bobbin lace (TRC 2021.2961).