Over the years I have become intrigued with some ‘strange’ items in the TRC collection, but I never expected to become interested in that everyday item, the press stud! I am currently cataloguing various forms of fastenings, such as press studs, hooks and eyes, and buttons, that were given to the TRC by Hennie Stevan-Bathoorn and Sjoerd Stevan of the former Museum voor Naaldkunst, Winschoten, here in the Netherlands.
The donation includes a folder with various sheets of press studs that were produced by different manufacturers. I have never really looked in detail at these small, but useful items before, but I started to wonder about the history of these items as well as looking again at the press studs in the collection, and at a range of garments that are fastened with such studs.
Fig. 1.Card with Waldes press studs with spring , c. 1910 (TRC 2026.2091).
Well, to start with, the press studs (UK) have different names in the (English-speaking) world. In the US, for example, they are called snap fasteners, snaps, or snap buttons. Elsewhere they are sometimes called poppers, tich buttons or dome fasteners.
A typical press stud is made up of two basic elements, namely a circular disc with a protrusion or knob that fits into a well or groove on a second, corresponding disc. These two discs are sometimes called the male and female parts, stud and well, stud and disc, or knob and well.
Fig. 2. Card with 6x 6 black press studs. Germany, early 20th century (TRC 2026.2018).
Different sizes of press studs are made, for example, for a baby’s garment (very small), bras (small) or jackets (large). They were originally produced in black or silver coloured metals, but by the end of the 20th century a range of coloured metal versions, or even transparent and opaque plastic examples became available, as well as stylised floral forms and a range of ornate geometric shapes.
It would appear that press studs were first patented in March 1885 by an inventor from Pforzheim in southwestern Germany, called Heribert Bauer. The patent describes them as “Federknopf-Verschluss” ('spring-button-closure'). The Bauer studs were regarded as an interesting device but with some basic problems, such as rusting and opening at inconvenient moments.
Over the next few years various other patents were applied for, including one by a French engineer called Albert-Pierre Raymond. In 1886 he designed a version that was specifically intended for glove makers.
In 1893 a German haberdasher, called Hans Prym, devised a press stud with a small spring in it (see below), and this has become a standard feature for many press studs ever since. In 1903 a German haberdasher called Hans Prym solved the problem of press studs opening up by accident by inserting a rust-proof S-shaped bronze wire into the fastener. It is this form that is used for many press studs to the present day and which is sold all over the world
Card with 6x 6 black press studs. There is a printed text that states: "PRYM'S AVENIR WERELDMERK DRUKKNOOP", Germany, produced for the Dutch market, early 20th century (TRC 2026.2008).
Fig. 1. Card with Waldes press studs with spring, c. 1910 (TRC 2026.2091).
The moderrn ‘male’ part of press studs usually has a small, ring-shaped spring that creates tension around the knob when the two halves of the stud are pressed together. Nowadays, some press studs have such springs, while others have a groove instead. Some press studs are sewn to a ground material via holes cut into the discs, while others are attached to a cloth, felt or leather ground with a form of rivet (the rivet form will be the subject of a blog in due course).
Based on the advertisements for early press studs, people were concerned about springs and studs rusting as a result of washing garments, etc. They also were aware of the metal sewing holes cutting and fraying the sewing thread, and the edges of the discs tearing the ground material.
The ‘fact’ that press studs are rust-resident is a feature of many sheets used to sell press studs (see figure Xxx). Presenting/selling press studs
TRC 2026.2027 guaranteed rustless
Numerous companies started to produce press studs in the early 20th century and in some cases they were sold in small paper packages, while others were in small boxes. Most companies produced a card sheet that was divided into six sections
Fig. 2. TRC 2026.2018 sold on a card sheet
A feature of these sheets is that the press studs were often sold in groups of six, which suggests a British influence (based on groups of 12), rather than the continental system based on 10.
Card with 6x six black press studs and the printed text: "WALDERS Koh-i-noor. Paris (TRC 2026.2090).
Miss KIN and a press stud monocle
The press studs recently added to the TRC catalogue include some examples from the Koh-i-nor series. They were made by the Czech company of Waldes, which was set up by engineer Hynek Puc and salesman, Jindřich Waldes, and based in Prague. It started producing press studs in the 1890s, under the trade name of Koh-i-noor (KIN) after the famous diamond that is now part of the British crown jewels.
Prior to c. 1912 Koh-i-noor press studs had no specific logo. From 1912, however, a feature of Koh-i-nor press studs was the inclusion of a motif featuring a young girl (Miss KIN) whose left eye was a press stud.
TRC 2026.XXXX - A sheet of Koh-i-nor press studs without the classic logo of a girl with a press stud eye (pre-1912). TRC 2026.2007 - A sheet of Koh-i-nor press studs with a logo of a girl with a press stud eye.
Prior to the Second World War (1939-1945) the Waldes company produced press studs for many European and American countries, including France (KIN Paris), Germany, the Netherlands, Spain (KIN Barcelona) , and the USA. The various sheets were produced in the relevant languages, with different versions of Miss KIN.
Koh-i-noor Paris produced for the French market
Fig. 3. TRC 2026.2090
Uses
Press studs are often used instead of buttons ito fasten various items including soft furnishings as well as a wide range of garments from underwear, blouses, aprons, trousers, coats and skirts, headwear, gloves and footwear. They are a hidden form of fasteniung, and easy to use. There are different grades of press studs, from those suitable for a child to military grade forms used for parachute harnesses, etc. Press studs are also sometimes used to decorate items. In the TRC Collection, for example, there is a child’s embroidered cap from Pakistan that is embellished with buttons, coins and press studs.
Fig. 4. Cap with back panel decorated with bands of embroidered geometric motifs, zig-zag lines, V-shapes, etc., as well as applied press studs and other objects. Pakistan, mid-20th century (TRC 2026.1897).
Fig. 4. TRC 2026.1897
