According to Tanfous there is a strong link between the Raf-Raf costume and that of Andalusia (southern Spain), and in particular the tunics depicted in medieval Spanish/Andalusian miniatures, with stripes and embroidered plastrons and sleeves (1988:57). This type of tunic was known in Spain as camisa margomada. The term is derived from the Arabic raqama, which means ‘to embroider'.
The Raf-Raf region embroidery is generally worked on a gourgaf or wooden frame with legs, using silk, wool and gold threads on a cloth and/or tulle ground. All the gold is couched (a technique locallly known as tanbit), while the silk and wool are basically worked in satin stitch with a back stitch edging.
Sources:
- AYOUB, Abderrahman (2003). Signes et Symboles en Tunisie, Tunis: Institut National du Patrimoine.
- GINESTOUS, L. (1954). ‘La tunique brodée de Rafraf,’ Bulletin de Liaison de l’Office des Arts Tunisiens, 1, pp. 13-20.
- STONE, Caroline (1985). The Embroideries of North Africa, London: Longman.
- TANFOUS, Aziza Ben (et al; 1988). Les costumes traditionnels feminins de Tunisie, Tunis: Maison Tunisienne de l’Edition.
Digital source of illustration (retrieved 9th July 2016).
GVE